Three glimpses of the Japanese tea ceremony

Across the street from an empty lot in the Osaka suburb of Sakai, sits one of the most famous sites for followers of the Japanese tea ceremony. Tucked between two buildings in a sparsely landscaped lot stands a simple wooden roof above a stone rectangle. Inside that bamboo covered tank a well holds water beloved by the man who refined the tea ceremony, Sen No Rikyu.

His legacy is vibrant over centuries. Rikyu’s fondness for simple, Japanese utensils and the tradition of “Wabi Cha” with three aspects: Rustic simplicity, directness of approach and honesty of self, led him become a confidant of many of the Japanese leaders of the 1600s.

He is especially admired for instructing roaming samurai to remove their swords before partaking of the ceremonial brew. It helped create national stability at a time when power was shifting and samurai, once the protectors of their leaders, with their significant warrior skills were unemployed and no longer needed. Some of the wandering warriors became ronin and a destabilizing force throughout the island nation.

Unfortunately his relationship with the leader Hideoshi soured. There are rumors that Rikyu commissioned a statue of himself to be placed inside the palace grounds in a location that would signify his stature above his leader. Known for having a hot temper, Hideoshi ordered Rikyu to perform seppaku, or ritualized suicide. The tea master did so with characteristic flair. He first invited a small group to attend a tea ceremony where he presented each with tea implements. After serving all, he destroyed his own tea bowl, saying that "Never again shall this cup, polluted by the lips of misfortune, be used by man." One guest remained after to witness. Rikyu spoke a death poem to the dagger with which he then took his own life.

In the years since this martyr to art has been immortalized and ceremonies mark his death throughout Japan each year. The greatest of which is the tea ceremony which offers a focus on tradition, simplicity and refinement. Its highly skilled practitioners often spend years perfecting its ideal and that continues today.

A commercial tea ceremony:

Just before the Miyako Odori performances in Kyoto, special ticket holders are invited to sit at long tables before a small platform. The atmosphere transforms in just a few minutes as two ornately dressed and nearly still women create bowls of ceremonial tea. While they perform a shortened version of the tea ceremony and offer three bowls to guests in the front row, the rest of the room is served quickly. Each receives a sweet bean pastry on a small ceramic plate and a bowl of tea. It’s over in less than ten minutes – a fraction of the full ritual time.

A personal tea ceremony:

At a special gathering in an upstairs home not far from the port of Sakai, a young girl sits on a tatami mat, bent over a large ceramic bowl tending to coals which warm a pot of water. With slow deliberation and complete focus, she gently scoops out a small spoonful of ceremonial grade, ‘matcha’ tea powder and taps it with a tiny, bamboo ladle into a small bowl. On she continues with a whisk and water, creating a lightly foamed beverage and hands the bowl to her assistant who places it on a low table in front of the guests.

Each, in order of importance (and nerve), sits on their knees to receive the offering. Those who are adept, turn the bowl 90 degrees after they complete three and a half sips, returning the central decoration to face the assistant. Then they stand, relinquishing the space to the next recipient. The ritual repeats until all are served and the young girl finally unfolds her body, stepping from the platform to gracious congratulations.

She has been preparing for over a year to offer this ancient ritual to her father’s business guests and will continue her lessons in the art of the tea ceremony over the months to come.

The locked gate where Sen no Rikyu’s well sits, is opened with a swift hand and a uniformed official leads a small group into the space. He speaks about the well and its history; its importance in creating stability and peace in the land of the setting sun. His words reverberate off the surrounding walls as the spirit of the tea ceremony lives on, inspiring contemplation and appreciation to visitors and Japanese alike in a world still hungry for ritual and calm.

Photos by the author, Elaine J. Masters