Soaking in a Ryokan hot spring

Stepping into the lobby of the Kanaguya Inn is a journey into another world. From the moment you are asked to leave your shoes at the portal and slide into traditional slippers, there’s a sense that all is well and worries begin to melt before you even sink into one of their several onsen, or natural hot springs.

Each room is fashioned with a shoji screen entryway, which opens into the main sitting area where tea and red bean cakes wait at a low table. There are modern comforts but they may take a bit of investigation. Behind a narrow door lies the toilet – and this is anything but an ancient relic. Many toilets across the country are electric with heated seats and a dizzying array of buttons for washing, bidet style. There's also a sink and small refrigerator that holds a large beer and water but the similarity to western hotels ends there.

Inside one closet is all you need to wear for the length of your stay – a cotton kimono, a heavier over-kimono, belt and traditional socks. Each floor has a private bath that you are welcome to use as long as the door is unlocked. Down one of the narrow passageways are others. A rooftop onsen is set into the hillside. There’s a men’s bath and a women’s bath but avoid unfortunate surprises as they change places at midnight.

Traditional breakfast and dinner is included and served in a large banquet hall set with comfortable booths on one of the upper floors. If you’re lucky enough to be traveling with a group, there’s a smaller, private dining room where low individual tables are set in two facing rows. Kimono clad waitresses drop gracefully to knees that must ache at the end of the day, as they serve rounds of delicious local dishes.

Aside from all those pleasures, there’s more to be discovered out on the street. Eight other public bathhouses wait for your visit and since you’re staying at the Kanaguya, there’s no charge. Step back into the lobby in your kimono, trade your indoor slippers for outside versions and walk out. You’ll be joined by other visitors taking the waters and enjoying the delights of Ryokan life.

Pictures by the author, Elaine J. Masters