Night diving with Mantas

Manta rays are some of the most exquisite and unusual creatures on the planet. Floating in tropical water, as a diver or snorkeler, and watching one approach is bound to get anyone’s heart racing. It isn't out of fear. These gentle giants are so alien to anything human except for consciousness. They are intelligent and observant, in the least.

Off the coast of Kona, Hawaii there’s a couple of spots where the intrepid can get in the water with these amazing creatures. To merely observe from a hotel deck, head over to the Kona Sheraton at twilight and be amazed as the creatures emerge from the shadows. The bright lights rimming the rocks on the shore attract plankton and the plankton are the favorite meal of mantas. The hotel also organizes snorkeling and diving in the same bay.

A deeper experience requires reserving a space on one of the many Manta encounter boat rides. The north coast is rimmed with dark volcanic rock and just off the airport road, several large searchlights have been installed about 50 feet in the sands below.

My family and I arrived in the late afternoon selecting a prime mooring. We settled into the warm water and went looking for sea worms. Suddenly our dive master pointed up and emerging from behind a corral pinnacle about ten feet above our heads was a juvenile Manta. He slowly and gracefully lifted and lowered the large fins on either side of his torso and swerved through our our bubbles rising from below.

We surfaced soon after surprised to see that about five boats had arrived and moored in the same area. Soon a crowded floatilla had formed as the sun set and we prepared for our second dive. Large lights flared up from below and excitement filled the air. Several of the boats disgorged rings of snorkelers, each with a small hand-held light. My greatest fear was how we’d keep our group together and find the right boat to return to, but that proved unnecessary.

Soon we splashed in, checked our lights and began to descend. It was a circus. There were dozens of divers in the water. Several had huge cameras with bright, wide, light booms. We settled into a place on the bottom and observed. It wasn’t long before a pair of huge Mantas began their odd feeding ritual.

They swerved in and out of the lighted areas where tiny plankton clouded the water. With mouths wide open, they scooted close, nearly brushing our heads and swinging in balletic arcs again and again. We watched as long as our air held out and reluctantly left the crowd, awed by the ancient feeding ritual surreally juxtaposed with a crowd of excited snorkelers and divers.

Photo courtesy of Dave Rudie